OPENING THE KITCHEN DOOR

For a man of relative youth, Håkan Thörnström has already managed to fit a lot into his career. Aged just 20, he was a member of the Swedish national chef’s team, competing in international tournaments against the world’s best. Now, as owner and head chef of critically acclaimed and newly Guide Michelin starred restaurant Thörnströms Kök, he is a leading figure in the recent renaissance of Swedish cuisine. As might be expected from a person of such obvious energy, he combined talking to us with preparing walnut bread for the evening’s guests.

Tell us about your restaurant Håkan.
‘We opened in 1997 on Valborgmässafton, which is a major public holiday here in Sweden. We were due to open the doors in the evening but at 0900 in the morning we still hadn’t received our license to sell alcohol. It literally came through a few hours before opening and 250 crates of wine were duly delivered as we were preparing food. I can laugh about it now but we were sweating then! I like to think that if you’d been a guest that night, you wouldn’t have noticed a thing!’

You obviously have an entrepreneurial side – where did this come from?
‘Before I started Thörnströms Kök I was a ‘consultant’ to several restaurants. I enjoyed this but eventually the urge to really establish myself using the reputation I’d built up became too strong – 14 years later, we’re still here.’

What is it like running a restaurant in Gothenburg?
‘Exciting. The whole branch has changed so much. That said, there is a great spirit of co-operation between restaurant people here. The increased development of Swedish food and the fact that the whole ‘concept’ of what Swedish food really is has become more clearly defined. This has led to increased interest in what we are creating which in turn means that there is more pressure to innovate.’

How would you describe real Gothenburg food?
‘Simple and tasty, yet uncomplicated by too many flavours. Gothenburg food is unpretentious – I like to call it proper cooking. Of course, we have outstanding fish and seafood here but there is so much more to discover for the adventurous eater.’

How does using local produce play its part in your dishes?
‘We always try to use local produce wherever possible. Here in Sweden, our seasons are distinct and always challenging from a chef’s point of view. We try to follow the seasons and lift their unique tastes whenever we can.’

It’s spring now – how will the dishes leaving your kitchen reflect this?
‘Come here right now and you’ll be served dishes with lighter protein. You might get the chance to try nettles, perhaps spring chicken. In a few weeks asparagus will come into season too – then strawberries. It’s our job to use these ingredients in such a way that still lifts the ‘concept’ of what we are trying to achieve here.’

Which is?
‘Our concept is modern Swedish cooking – and please note I use the word cooking. Our food and the environment here at the restaurant strive to be unpretentious. We see ourselves as a ‘kitchen’ rather than a dining room. After all, the kitchen is the true centre of the home and the kitchen table is the focal point for any great food experience.’

What does the future hold for Gothenburg when it comes to its restaurants?
‘A lot of potential. We are already punching above our weight when it comes to high-quality restaurants per capita. The selection of eating places right across the spectrum continues to increase too. Ultimately, we want people to connect Gothenburg with the Scandinavian kitchen in the same way people connect Tuscany with all its delicacies.’

2011-03-16